BHUTAN
Chomolhari/Tso Phu trek
Fall 2005
A 13 day trek and tour in the Buddhist kingdom of Bhutan. The kingdom is
located in the eastern end of the Himalayan mountain chain bordered on the
north by Tibet and on the south by India. While it is only one third the
size of Nepal, it's population is less than a million. The Bhutanese are
proud of their pristine countryside, heavily forested with pine and their
valleys dotted with small Swiss-like farmhouses. Villages are dominated by
enormous Dzongs (monasteries) which are used as education centres as well as
regional administrative offices.
This 9 day trek features the spectacular campsite at the base of Mt.
Chomolhari. Bring your camera the sunrise on the peak can be breathtaking!
The route then climbs to Tso Phu at 14,000' where we can fish for trout
before beginning our return to Paro. Distance of trek 73 miles. Grade
strenuous.
Foreign travel is restricted to minimize impact on both the local culture
and environment. There are less than 7,000 visitors to Bhutan each year
prompting travellers to greet one another in passing! Bhutanese men are
required to wear the gho (the national dress which resembles our bathrobe),
women the kira. Night life is non-existent and the national sport is archery.
The king is highly respected. One road, 1 1/2 cars wide, links the country
east to west.
Bhutan is reached from Bangkok via Druk Air, the Bhutanese national airline.
Recommended reading
* BHUTAN - Odyssey series * BHUTAN - Insight Guide
* BHUTAN - Lonely Planet * SO CLOSE TO HEAVEN - Barbara Crossette
* BEYOND the SKY and the EARTH - Jamie Zeppa
www.kuenselonline.com 
Depart Vancouver Sat Oct 15, 2005
Return Vancouver Mon Oct 31, 2005
Tour prices
Land price from Bangkok
8 trekkers $4,100US
7 trekkers $4,200US
6 trekkers $4,300US
5 trekkers $4,450US
Land Price includes:
Druk Air service Bangkok to Paro (Bhutan), bus transport, airport transfers,
hotels/lodges and meals in Bhutan, tent, porters and guides, trek duffle
bag plus Canadian leader. Pricing is based on double occupancy. Single
supplement charge - $25US/day
Not included: departure taxes, visa, sleeping bag or air mattress, personal
expenses.
BHUTAN
Chomolhari / Tso phu trek
Day Schedule
Day 1 depart Canada
Day 2 arrive Bangkok
Day 3 arrive Paro 6,900'
Day 4 day hike to Taktsang 10,500'
Day 5 trek begins
Drukgyel Dzong 8,200' Shana 9,500' 11.2 miles
Day 6 Shana Thang Thanka 11,800' 11.8 miles
Day 7 Thang Thanka Chomolhari BC 13,100' 10 miles
Day 8 Chomolhari rest day
Day 9 Chomolhari Tso phu 14,100' 4 miles
Day 10 Psophu Choropang 12,300' 8.5 miles
Day 11 Choropang Thangbue 13,100' 7 miles
Day 12 Thongbue Shana 9,500' 9 miles
trek ends
Day 13 Shana Paro transfer to Thimphu
Day 14 Thimphu tour
Day 15 transfer to Paro
Day 16 fly to Bangkok KB124
fly to Hong Kong
Day 17 fly to Canada
BHUTAN
Chomolhari / Tso Phu
Day 5 PARO TO DRUKYEL DZONG TO SHANA
Starting elevation: 8202'Drukyel Dzong
Ending Elevation: 9,482'
Elevation Gain: l,624'
Elevation loss: 0
Distance: 11.2 miles
We drive the winding road northwest up the Pa Chu to Drukyel, the ruined
Dzong which once defended this valley from Tibetan invasion. This fortress,
now a burned shell, was once strategic in Bhutan's defense against Tibetan
invasion. Mt. Chomolhari (24,500 feet), the sacred summit, reaches skyward
beyond the Dzong. The road ends and the trek begins, following the river
gently uphill through a narrowing agricultural valley. Many farms line the
valley.
The trail proceeds up a wide valley beneath forest-covered mountains. Our
hike today takes us to our first camp in a grove of pines at Shana, which is
at the confluence of two valleys.
Day 6 SHANA TO SOI THANGTHANKA
Starting Elevation: 9,482'
Ending Elevation: 11,745'
Elevation Gain: 2,559'
Elevation loss: 0
Distance 11.8 miles
Up early this morning. The trail starts gradually up river valley passing
farms and crossing and re crossing the river many times.
After lunch, we continued upstream. Lots of flora will be in evidence.
One last climb after tea, up about 300 feet to a small pass, then rather
level above the river and gradually winds down to the river and across a
cantilever bridge. The trail climbs again and then splits. We take the left
hand trail up towards the mountain, the trail to the right (past the
chorten) heads to Soi Yaksa.
Camp is in a meadow with stone shelter which the government has built for
trekkers. There are views of Chomolhari as you reach camp
Day 7 SOI THANGTHANKA TO JANGOTHANG
Starting Elevation: 11,745'
Ending Elevation: 13,100'
Elevation Gain: 1,674'
Elevation loss: 0
Distance: 9.9 miles
On up the Pa Chu. Pass a small army post where the valley begins to widen
again. The trail climbs to a beautiful flat plateau with a small chorten.
The trail follows the river around a sharp bend and again climbs to another
plateau where our staff will have a hearty lunch waiting for us.
After lunch, we continue, now above tree line, through a spectacular valley
lined with snow peaks and several huge waterfalls.
We pass the small village of Jangothang, and within an hour, reach the camp
at the base of the ruins of an ancient fortress and (if it is clear)
Chomolhari looming at the end of the valley. Camp
Day 8 JANGOTHANG (CHOMOLHARI BASE CAMP) (13,288 feet)
Today is the "rest". There are stupendous day-hikes in 3 directions.
Chomolhari and it's subsidiary are directly west, Jichu Drake to the north,
unclimbed summits and ridges to the east. For those feeling the altitude or
just interested in relaxing, one trek leader suggests sitting in camp and
watching the shifting light on Chomolhari...what a way to spend the day!
Day 9 JANGOTHANG TO TSO PHU
Starting elevation: 13,100' at Jangothang
Ending elevation: 14,100' at Tso Phu
Elevation gain: 1000'
Elevation loss: 0'
Approximate mileage: 4 miles
Today's walk is very short so it is possible to enjoy another day hike from
Jangothang before heading to the Lakes and the new campsite. Those
interested in fishing may wish to head up to the lakes earlier in the day.
The trail crosses the river and begins to climb up to the lakes. A steep
climb for about 45 minutes with spectacular views of Jitchu Drake and
Chomolhari which grow more and more impressive as you gain altitude. Once
you reach the top of the plateau, the trail will level out and after
crossing a small hill, the first lake will come into view. This is a
spectacular walk with the three major peaks rising above the valley, a broad
stream on your right and snow covered peaks in the distance.
These two lakes were stocked with brown trout in the 1960's by H.R.H. Prince
Namgyal Wangchuck.
Day 10 TSO PHU TO CHORAPANG
Starting elevation: 14,100' at Jangothang
Ending elevation: 12,300' at Chorapang (camp along river in Soi Yaksa
Valley)
Elevation gain: 1576' to Bang Tue La
Elevation loss: 3215'
Approximate mileage: 8.57 miles
Today, we tackle the Bang Tue La (Pass) which is the highest point on our
trek at 15,700'. An early start is recommended to allow for enough time to
reach camp and to get over the pass in the morning when the weather is the
most stable.
The trail leaves the valley floor and begins the climb to the pass with a
steep traverse of a scree slope. As we near the top of this first incline,
we cross a small glacial stream. The trail winds up and into an upper
valley, with snow capped peaks in the distance. We skirt several streams and
a small lake as we make our way towards the final climb to the pass.
Be on the lookout for Blue Sheep on the steep hillsides above the valley.
In the fall, the sheep gather in herds numbering up to 500 individuals.
At a slow pace, we should be at the pass by approximately 11:00 a.m.
>From the pass, the trail drops quickly to a huge grass-covered plateau
dotted with yak herders¹ tent stone circles. To the right is a massive cliff
with waterfalls and a vast scree field below. The valley of Soi Yaksa is an
incredibly scenic box canyon, which ends abruptly at the foot of the steep
cliff. Above the canyon floor, the landscape is comprised of cliffs,
waterfalls and higher still, snow covered peaks. Above the cliff to our
right, the mountain rises to a dramatic point, resembling the throne of a
local deity.
As we ramble through the steep grazing fields, we can see the edge of the
plateau which ends with a final descent to the valley floor and our camp
site beside a rushing stream.
Day 11 CHORAPANG TO THANGBUE
Starting elevation: 12,300' at Chorapang (camp along river in Soi Yaksa
Valley)
Ending elevation: 13,123' at Thangbue
Elevation gain: 2132' up to Takalung La
Elevation loss: 1312' down from Takalung La
Approximate mileage: 6.84 miles
We climb steadily for 600 feet above the camp and then the trails levels
out and winds around a ridge and crosses a stream. Another steep climb to a
small pass marked by several small chortens. We stopped for a brief tea
break and then continue, now above tree line, past one yak herder tent and
herds of grazing yak. We reach the next valley which has a beautiful snow
fed river.
We cross the river and begin the climb to the pass. It is steep, but we
take our time and after one and a half hours we reach our second pass, The
Takalung La at 14,400'. From the pass, we can see the large valley of
Thangbue and our campsite for the night. A gently winding trail leads us
downhill to our camp.
If the weather cooperates, the view from the pass is spectacular, with
Chomolhari and Jitchu Drake rising over the mountain range we covered
yesterday. We have a clear view of the Bang Teu La, (yesterday's pass), and
the Soi Yaksa Valley.
Thangbue is a wide valley filled with yak herder encampments, many yaks,
horses, and a few goats.
Day 12 THANGBUE TO SHANA
Starting elevation: 13,200' at Thangbue
Ending elevation: 9482' at Shana
Elevation gain: 722' up to Thangbue La
Elevation loss: 4440' down from Thangbue La to Shana
Approximate mileage: 9.2 miles
Our trail climbs steeply from camp up the side of a mountain covered with
dwarf rhododendron. It is a relatively short but steep climb to the small
pass. From this point, we begin a wonderful part of our trek route. For
almost two hours, we walk along a ridgeline trail with drop offs to the
valley floors below on both sides. If it is clear, there are panoramic views
of the major peaks and distant valleys.
Eventually we drop down from the high ridge and we begin to glimpse views of
another dramatic peak, Drake Gang. Like Jitchu Drake, it is the residence of
a local male deity, while Chomolhari is the home of Jomo, a female deity. We
were now in an area of rocky cliffs and parapets which faded in and out of
the mist. We dropped further to a lovely spot with views of the valleys
below us. We stop for a tea break while enjoying the view.
>From this tranquil spot, we begin one of our most challenging parts of the
trek. For the next three hours, we dropped steeply on a switchback trail
losing about 4500 feet. The trail again is littered with many stones which
make footing challenging.
As we lose elevation, the landscape changes from alpine with dwarf
rhododendrons to lush pine forests with huge old growth trees. Even lower,
we entered a mixed forest of pine and oak.
Day 13 SHANA TO PARO / THIMPHU
For the remaining journey from Shana to Drukyel Dzong, we enjoy the
relatively flat walk to the road head. Upon arrival at Drukyel, we will be
met by the staff and vehicles.
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